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THE  "CAIRO  STREET; 


AIDWAY  PLAISANCE. 


The  all-pervading  charm  which  everywhere  surrounds  the 
name  of  Egypt  may  be  traced  back  to  the  days  of  our 
childhood,  to  the  time  when  we  first  heard  the  story  of 
Moses  and  of  Pharaoh's-  daughter,  of  Joseph  and  his  brethren,  and  the  flight 
of  the  Holy  Family  into  Egypt.  It  is  the  charm  which  tha  teaching  of 
Biblical  history  has  impressed  upon  our  minds  when  most  capable  of 
reception,  and  the  beauty  of  the  impressions  have  made  us  loth  to  destroy 
them.  Hence,  in  all  that  pertains  to  Egypt,  we  have  more  than  a  passing 
interest.  Indeed  there  has  been  a  hope  in  the  hearts  of  all  of  us  that  some 
day  we  might  be  able  to  visit  this  land  of  our  fondest  dreams,  but  time  and 
money  have  been  a  chasm  too  broad  to  be  bridged  by  many,  and  to  most 
Americans  it  has  been  a  case  of  deferred  hope  and  a  sad  heart.  Is  it  not 
pleasant  to  know  that,  in  a  measure,  this  delightful  dream  is  to  be  realized? 
At  Paris,  in  1889,  the  Ttui  da  Caire  was  pronounced  a  great  success, 
though  little  was  then  attempted,  but'itwas  a  suggestion  to  some  bright 
minds  in  Chicago,  and  capital  was  interested  to  an  amount  sufficient  to 
build  at  the  Exposition  of  1893,  the  Cairo  Street— not  the  exact  reproduction 
of  any  one  street  in  Cairo,  but  a  composite  structure  which  combines  the 
most  beautiful  architectural  features  of  Cairo.  To  secure  this  end,  the  aid 
of  the  Egyptian  Government  was  invoked,  and,  after  due  consideration,  the 
Khedive  gave  permission  to  his  governmental  architect,  Max  Herz,  to  pre- 

COPYHIGHT,    1893,    BY    EGYPT-CHICAGO    EXPOSITION    CO. 

2 


pare  designs  and  plans.  Later,  Mr.  Herz  was  permitted  to  visit  America  to 
superintend  the  construction  of  the  Cairo  Street  in  person.  As  a  result, 
there  now  stands  in  the  center  of  the  Midway  Plaisance,  under  the 
shadow  of  the  Ferris  Wheel,  the  brightest  gem  of  the  Columbian 
Exposition.  A  glorious  achievement  in  its  entirety,  a  matchless  triumph  in 
detail.  It  is  a  restored  Cairo,  in  the  days  of  its  unimpaired  splendor.  Its 
mosque  and  fountain  are  transcendantly  beautiful;  the  balconies,  which 
everywhere  o'erhang  the  street,  are  veritable  gems,  ornamented  as  they  are 
with  antique  Meshrebieh,  much  of  it  seasoned  with  the  age  of  centuries. 
Beautifu  as  it  is,  the  architecture  alone  would  be  but  a  poor  reflex  of  that  of 
Cairo  said  to  be  the  liveliest  ana  most  picturesque  city  in  the  world,  and  so 
Mr.  George  Pangalo,  or  Cairo,  has  brought  from  Egypt  a  throng  of  natives 
who  wil  people  this  miniature  city.  This  population  is  thoroughly  repre- 
sentative and  the  street  fairly  swarms  with  Egyptians,  Arabs,  Nubians 
and  Soudanese. 

To  reach  Cairo,  enter  the  Plaisance  at  the  Woman's  Building;  stroll 
down  the  broad  avenue  if  you  are  fond  of  walking  and  have  time,  other- 
wise use  a  rolling  chair,  or,  better  still,  enter  a  car  of  the  sliding  railway  and 
be  instantaneously  transported  to  the  very  gate  of  the  City.  Your 
first  glance  may  be  a  disappointment.  Like  all  Mohammedan 
towns,  its  exterior  is  most  uninviting.  Plastered  walls,  irregular  .^-, 
buildings,  here  and  there  pierced  with  grated  openings,  present 
a  forbidding  aspect,  which  is  only  relieved  by  the  stately 
minaret,  which  rises  from  the  center  of  this  mass.  Enter  the 
eastern  portal,  which  is  low  and  broad,  and  you  realize 
your  dream  of  the  Orient.  You  forget  the  magnitude  of 


STRCP.T  LOOKING  EAST. 


the  buildings  in  Jackson  Park  and  the  "sky  scrapers"  of 
Chicago,  and  enter  into  the  strange  life  which  is  before 
ypu.  There  is  nothing  to  remind  you  of  the  igth  century, 
save  the  costumes  of  the  visitors  who  are  there,  like 
yourself,  and  whom  you  might  wish  elsewhere,  that  you 
might  enjoy  your  dream.  Passing  the  shops  at  the 
entrance,  step  into  the  Cafe  and  seat  yourself.  As  you  sip 
your  Mocha  and  enjoy  its  fragrance,  glance  down  the  street,  for  through 
the  arches  of  this  Cafe  may  be  had  its  best  view.  Directly  in  front  of  you 
stands  the  Mosque,  which  is  a  counterpart  of  that  of  the  Sultan  Kait  Bay, 
in  all  save  the  minaret,  that  being  a  reproduction  in  its  entirety  of  the  mina- 
ret of  the  Mosque  of  Abou  Bake  Mazhar,  the  most  beautiful  in  all  Cairo. 
Later,  when  you  visit  the  Mosque,  notice  the  massive  doors  and  their  orna- 
mentation. The  metal  ornaments  are  rich  in  their  tracery,  and  still  more 
gorgeous  in  the  sublime  coloring  of  centuries  of  corrosion.  In  the  sanctuary, 
which  is  truth  itself  in  its  fidelity  to  its  model,  gaze  with  wonder  upon  the 
decorations,  the  draperies  and  the  pendant  lamps,  all  rich  in  the  colors  which 
were  grand  when  new,  but  now  glorified  by  the  refining  influences  of  nature. 
If  you  are  curious  about  the  worship  of  the  Mohammedan,  step  into  the  visi- 
tor's gallery,  when  the  Muezzin  calls  the  faithful  to  prayer,  and  see  them  at 
their  devotions. 

Across  the  street  is  the  restored  dwelling  of  a  rich  Arab  of  the  i7th 
century,  Gamal  El  Din  El  Yahbi.  The  facade  is  more  elaborate  than  is 
usual  in  the  street,  Huge  balconies  extend  from  the  upper  stories,  and 
Meshrebieh,  rich  with  the  color  of  age,  suggests  a  luxurious  interior.  Enter 
the  handsome  portal,  and  as  the  doors  swing  open  examine  the  beauty  of 


5 


A\OSQUE. 


their  traceries  so  exquisitely  inlaid  with  ivory.  Ascend  to  the  living  apart- 
ments of  this  house  and  wonder  at  the  luxurious  and  refined  life  the  owner 
must  have  led.  The  costly  decorations,  gilded  ceilings,  mosaics,  elaborate 
draperies,  beautiful  rugs,  all  proclaim  rich  ease  and  refined  luxury. 

Further  down  the  street,  well  removed  from  the  houses  on  either  side, 
stands  a  marble  pavilion  the  walls  of  the  lower  story  pierced  with  arched 
windows,  while  above  are  light  arcades,  covered  with  Arabesques  and 
crowned  with  o'er-spreading  balconies.  The  ground  floor  is,  in  Cairo,  used 
as  a  drinking  fountain,  and  the  upper  for  a  Kuttab  or  Moscjue  school.  Here 
the  pavilion  will  be  put  to  the  same  purpose,  some  of  the  time,  but  visitors 
will  be  permitted  to  use  the  upper  room  as  an  observatory  during  the 
greater  portion  of  the  season.  In  Cairo  the  Sebil  is  known  as  that  of 
Abderrah  an  Khat  Hoadi.  It  is  the  finest  example  of  that  type  of  architecture 
in  Cairo.  To  the  right  of  the  Sebil  is  located  the  entrance  to  the  theatre,  where 
are  given  the  wild,  weird  performances  peculiar  to  the  race.  In  the  selection 
of  performers  Mr.  Pangalo  was  careful  only  to  secure  the  most  expert.  The 
sword  dancers,  candle  dancers,  those  who  perform  the  Dans  du  Ventre, 
are  the  bright  particular  stars  of  the  Egyptian  firmanent,  while  the  musicians 
who  accompany  them  are  as  weird  and  picturesque  as  the  dancers  them- 
selves. The  theatre  is  not  dependent,  however,  upon  the  performers  for 
interest,  for  its  decorations  ar"e  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

To  the  left  of  the  Sebil,  is  located  the  Okala.    The  handsomest  portal 
in  the  street  gives  you  entrance  to  the  interior  where 
a  scene  of  indescribable  beauty  awaits.    A  quadran  • 
gular  Court,  upon  all  sides  of  which  rise  pointed 
arches   one  above  the  other,   again  surrounded  by 


MOUSE  op  GA/*\AL  EL  DIN  EL  YAHBI 


TYPES  or  CAIRO. 


galleries  supported  on  groined  arches,  while  above,  the  blue  sky  is  made 
oriental  by  the  contrast.  Here  busy  merchants  ply  their  trade,  the  colors  of 
their  garb  and  wares  being  a  part  of  its  decoration.  Beautiful  as  it  is  by 
day,  the  scene  at  night  surpasses  it.  The  sky  is  then  dotted  with  stars  and 
quaint  Egyptian  lamps  in  myriad  tints  give  lustre  to  the  mysterious  glow. 
If  these  are  special  features  of  the  street,  do  not  think  that  here  they  end. 
From  your  present  point  of  view,  the  houses  all  have  interest.  They  re- 
semble one  another,  yet  are  different  in  color  and  effect.  The  stone  brackets 
which  jut  out  and  hold  up  the  walls  of  the  upper  stories  are  all  true  repro- 
ductions of  some  good  Arabic  type.  The  upper  stories  furnish  the  architec- 
tural beauties  of  the  street,  while  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see,  the  lower  floors 
are  occupied  by  shops,  not  the  shops  of  Europe,  but  the  type  of  Cairo,  rec- 
tangular niches  cut  in  the  walls,  in  which  the  merchant  sits  surrounded  by 
his  wares.  To  visit  all  of  these  (there  are  sixty-one  in  the  street),  will 
be  one  continual  journey  of  delight,  for  here  you  will  find  all  that  the  great 
bazars  of  Cairo  can  boast.  Every  quarter  of  the  Nile  country  contributes 
to  the  great  variety,  and  as  you  visit  one  shop  after  another,  you  will  find 
not  only  the  ivories,  jewelry,  potteries,  brass  work,  embroideries,  etc., 
which  you  expect,  but  as  well  Soudanese  arms  and  draperies, 
gold  and  silver  coins  of  ancient  Egyptian  dynasties,  genuine 
mummies,  beetles,  national  costumes  of  Egypt,  toilet 
articles,  Lotus  soap,  and  myriads  of  household  articles, 
which  must  appeal  to  modern  decorative  instincts.  In  your 
journey  about  the  street  you  will  also  find  the  artisans  at 
work,  the  manufacturers  of  slippers,  the  silk  weavers  at 
their  looms,  the  siwan  (tent)  makers  and  embroiderers,  seal 


-.  •   - 


THEATRE. 


engravers,  silversmiths  making  the  famous  filigree  work 
of  the  Soudan,  goulahs  (jars)  shaped  and  decorated  by 
native  workmen,  candy  makers,  manufacturers  of  musical 
instruments  engravers,  wood  and  ebony  carvers,  decorat- 
ors, etc.,  all  jusy  at  their  peculiar  industries.  Look  at  the 
barber!  his  every  look  and  manner  of  operation  so  different. 
The  merchant  will  be  found  as  interesting  as  his  wares,  and  go  not  to 
him  dreaming  that  he  knows  not  your  language.  He  has  been  dealing  with 
English  men  and  women  all  his  life.  But  Cairo  would  not  be  complete 
without  the  donkey.  You  were  not  in  the  street  a  moment  before  you 
heard  the  donkey  boy  crying  the  virtues  of  his  beast  in  unmistakable  Eng- 
lish. He  is  a  character,  this  donkey  boy  (or  man  as  the  case  may  be),  al- 
though he  is  never  called  other  than  boy.  His  calling  is  hereditary.  The 
son  following  in  the  footsteps  of  the  father,  generation  after  generation. 

Turn  where  you  will,  you  are  not  likely  to  escape  the  importunate  street 
vender,  or  the  donkey  boy.  The  driver  of  the  stately  camel  may  seek  your 
custom,  but  it  will  be  with  a  dignity  akin  to  the  "ship  of  the  desert," 
now  so  gaily  bedecked. 

But  if  this  city  is  attractive  in  its  every  day  life,  what  shall  be  said  of 
it  when  it  puts  on  its  holiday  garb.  Go  into  the  street  in  the  morning  and 
see  the  gayety  of  the  wedding  procession  which  the  artist  has  faithfully 
depicted ;  though  this  is  one  of  the  festivals  which  never  identically  repeats 
itself.  The  populace  puts  on  its  best  attire  and  joy  reigns 
supreme.  The  wrestler,  the  musician,  the  torch  bearer,  camels, 
priests  and  women  make  up  an  escort  for  the  bride,  while  the 
crowd  of  sight  seers  help  swell  the  chord  of  enthusiasm.  Then 

V 

12 


there  is  the  ceremony  of  the  "Moulid"  or  birthday  festival, 
where  joy  and  pleasure  are  indulged  in  to  the  fullest  extent. 
The  street  is  filled  for  a  time  with  tents  of  elaborate  descrip- 
tion, and  conjurers,  astrologers,  necromancers,  snake 
charmers  and  dancers  perform  their  most  marvelous  feats. 
Every  variety  of  life  is  here  represented,  and  you  will  find  it 
sufficiently  versatile  to  create  an  unimpaired  interest.  It  is  an  object  lesson 
of  oriental  life  of  great  educational  importance.  For  a  moment  leave  the 
Arabian  or  modern  Egyptian  to  his  pleasures  and  step  into  the  realm  of 
ancient  Egypt,  as  portrayed  in  the  ancient  Temple  of  Luxor,  now  completely 
restored.  This  is  an  exact  reproduction,  of  a  temple  built  by  Amenoph  III, 
1550  B.  C.,  and  is  the  only  one  ever  restored.  On  the  outer  walls  are 
sculptured  battle  scenes  as  well  as  those  representing  the  worshipping  of  the 
divinities.  The  two  obelisks  are  exact  reproductions  of  the  original  obelisks. 
They  are  seventy-five  feet  high  and  five  feet  square  at  the  base.  The  obelisk 
to  the  right  of  the  entrance  has  sculptured  on  it  in  hieroglyphics  a  dedication 
to  the  World's  Columbian  Exposition. 

Entering  this  temple  the  visitor's  attention  will  be  attracted  by  obelisks, 
statues  and  sphinxes,  a  gateway  flanked  by  pyramidal  towers  and  hierogly- 
phic inscriptions  copied  from  the  ancient  monuments.  Amenoph  III,  eigh- 
teenth^ dynasty,  1550  B.  C.;  Rameses  II,  nineteenth  dynasty,  140x3  B.  C. 
and  Nectanebo  II,  thirtieth  dynasty,  345  B.  C.,  are  the  heroes 
of  the  historical  scenes.  Amon-Ra,  Maut  and  Khons  are  in 
the  shrine  as  the  trinity  of  Thebes.  The  judgment  of  the 
deacon  with  the  fate  of  the  justified  and  the  condemned,  the 
death  and  resurrection  of  the  Son  of  God  are  illustrated. 

14 


Here  is  also  a  colossal  statue  of  Phi  and  a  sarcophagus  of  the  Sacred 
Bull  of  the  later  Ptolemic  period.  This  Temple  is  a  perfect  storehouse  of 
Ancient  Egyptiana. 

Just  north  of  the  Temple  the  Soudanese  contingent  has  pitched  its 
siwans,  and  there  will  the  strange  people  from  the  Soudan  and  from  Nubia 
repeat  their  daily  life  as  at  home.  The  Soudanese  have  traveled  to  some 
extent  but  these  Nubians  are  the  first  to  leave  the  borders  of  Egypt.  Their 
peculiarities  will  prove  interesting. 

This  little  book  is  written  simply  as  a  suggestion.  To  describe  the 
beauties,  the  quaintness  or  the  picturesqueness  of  the  Cairo  Street  would  be 
impossible  in  a  volume  so  small.  Only  a  journey  there  will  satisfy  an 
interest  once  excited.  Visit  it  when  basking  in  the  heat  of  the  midday  sun, 
or  bathed  in  the  glowing  colors  of  departing  day,  it  is  alike  beautiful.  Go 
when  the  cold  grey  moonlight  illumines  it,  when  the  mysterious  gloom  of 
night  hangs  upon  it  and  its  grandeur  will  appeal  to  every  fiber  of  your  being. 
It  is  a  marvellous  creation,  artistic  in  conception,  truthful  in  the  interpretation 
of  its  beautiful  models,  a  revelation  in  the  perfection  of  its  accomplishment. 
When  the  Columbian  Exposition  shall  have  become  a  thing  of  the  past  and 
its  memories  hazy  with  the  flight  of  time,  if 
there  shall  be  one  spot  which  shall  remain 
brighter  than  all  the  rest,  that  one  will  be 
its  beautiful  Cairo  Street,  in  the  Midwrv 
Plaisance.  W.  J.  H. 


